Tim and I
have been in Sitka for two weeks now and have been working forty hours per week
at Sitka National Historical Park.
Although we are thoroughly enjoying the work, and will be staying on an
additional week to complete the project, we have found that this work schedule
has really cut into the time we have to get out and explore the town.
Since it’s
been a while since we had forty-hour work weeks, I have to admit that we are tired
at the end of the day and are not interested in much more than grabbing a bite
to eat and heading back to the RV to relax.
Updating this blog has also taken a backseat. Until this past Friday, it has rained almost
every day, which also provided a good excuse for not getting out. However, on the weekends Tim and I have slowly
been exploring some of the town’s historic sites, many of which are associated
with Sitka’s Russian heritage.
Sitka is Southeast
Alaska’s most historic town, and its history has lots of layers. The Tlingits were the first to settle here at
least 8,000 years ago. At the turn of
the nineteenth century the Russians arrived.
In 1867 Sitka became a U.S. territorial capital after Russia sold Alaska
to the United States.
Russians first
arrived in Alaska in 1741, and by 1799 the Russian imperial government had
established colonies throughout Alaska. Lured
by the lucrative fur trade, the Russians first gained a foothold in the
Aleutian Islands and virtually enslaved the Native Aleuts, forcing them into
hunting the sea otter, which had the most sought-after pelts. In order to extend their territorial claims
and hinder competition in the fur trade, the Russians soon set their sights on
places farther to the south.
In 1799 the
Russian-American Company, led by its manager Alexander Baranov, established a
fortification on Baranof Island, which was called Shee by the Tlingits who were
its native inhabitants. Relationships
soon soured, and the Tlingits attacked the Russian settlement and killed most
of the inhabitants. This victory was
short-lived, however, as the Tlingits ultimately failed to stop the Russians
when Baranov returned in 1804 and attacked the Tlingit fort at Shee At’iká. Sitka National Historical Park incorporates
this site and commemorates the Battle of Sitka.
Baranov selected
Shee At’iká as the headquarters of the Russian-American Company and renamed the
town New Archangel, more commonly called Sitka.
The Tlingits eventually moved back to Sitka, and the two nations developed
a wary coexistence.
"This Land Belongs to Russia" Iron Plate Buried to Record the Russian Claim to Alaska |
A Reconstructed Blockhouse Offered Protection |
It was
the Russian Orthodox Church and its missionary work that bridged the gap
between the Alaska Natives and the Russian community. Bishop Innocent arrived in Sitka in 1841, and
he embraced the culture of the Tlingits.
Unlike later American missionaries, Bishop Innocent incorporated Native
language into worship services and even translated scriptures into the Tlingit
and other Native Alaskan languages.
The
Russian Orthodox Church is the most enduring legacy of Russian America, which at
one time extended as far south as Fort Ross, just north of San Francisco. Several buildings in Sitka reflect this Russian
heritage. Most prominent is St. Michaels’s
Cathedral, which was designed by Bishop Innocent and constructed between 1844
and 1848. Sadly, a fire in 1966
destroyed the cathedral, although residents managed to save most of the icons
and furniture. The cathedral was
subsequently rebuilt and stands today as a most imposing structure in Sitka.
St. Michael's Cathedral |
The Domes of St. Michael's Cathedral |
The Iconostasis, or Icon Screen |
The Altar Behind the Royal Doors |
The Actual Aleut Gospel Translated by Bishop Innocent |
Even more
interesting to me was the Russian Bishop’s House, which is a part of Sitka
National Historical Park. This two-story
building served as the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Diocese of Sitka,
as well as the residence of the bishop.
Constructed in 1843 by Finnish shipwrights, the building reflects the traditional
timber frame construction that was typical of Russian buildings of that era in
Sitka.
The Russian Bishop's House - An Ecclesiastical Palace |
I’ve said
before that I think National Park Service tours are some of the best, and this one
was no exception. Ranger Anne gave us an
excellent tour of the upper floor of the building, including the Bishop’s
private quarters and chapel. She
elaborated on things that were of particular interest to us, especially the
architecture, and her explanations helped us understand the important role of
the church in Russian America.
Details from Bishop Innocent's Private Quarters |
Public Reception Area |
The Bishop's Chapel |
One of
the few sites that spans all three layers of Sitka’s history is Castle
Hill. This strategic location was once
the site of a Tlingit village until the Russians claimed it for their new seat
of government. Several buildings were
constructed here, but the most famous one was known as Baranof’s Castle. Built in 1837, this structure was visible for
miles and dominated the Sitka skyline. In
1867 Castle Hill was the site of the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the
United States. Castle Hill also provides
great views of Sitka and the surrounding area.
The View from Castle Hill |
There is
lots more to discover in Sitka, and I will cover more of the Tlingit heritage
and the totem poles for which Sitka is famous in the next post.
Loved the tour. First time I've seen an Orthodox church with the Royal Door open to view the altar. I had to chuckle at the plaque that declared the land Russian property! I agree about NPS's ranger-led tours ... I've yet to find one that we weren't pleased with.
ReplyDeleteThank you. There are so many places to visit in Sitka. I'll try to include a few more in another post.
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