Winter Weather Advisory! Seriously?

When traveling to Alaska, one never knows what might be in store as far as the weather is concerned.  For the most part, we have had three months of the most amazing weather anyone could hope for.  I guess it’s our turn for some nasty stuff.

Ever since we arrived in Denali almost two weeks ago, it has rained virtually nonstop.  Yes, there were a few nice days last week (when we were sick!), but all I can remember is rain, and more rain.  I hate to complain, but even the locals are sick of this weather.  

There has been so much rain that the park road has been closed on and off due to mud slides.  Yesterday, the road was closed at mile 53 because of snow!  Yes, snow in August!  I’m just not believing it.  The temperatures have really plummeted as well, and it will likely dip below freezing during the next few nights.  Highs are only in the low 40s where we are.  Brrr!  Now, to top everything off, the park is under a winter weather advisory until noon tomorrow!  Seriously?

Baby, It's Cold Up Here

You've Got to Be Kidding!

Although most full-time RVers would take this as a sign to get those wheels moving and head to someplace warmer, Tim and I are committed to working at Denali National Park through next Friday.  Tim is conducting an on-site archival survey and accessioning project, and the work is going well.  This project is not as glamorous as cataloging a historic photograph collection, but it’s an essential part of museum management.

The contract with Denali has been a bit different than previous ones with other parks.  Typically, Tim and I work together, with each of us undertaking different components of the same project.  Here, Tim has been focused on his project, while I have been doing whatever needs to be done to help the park’s museum curator.  I do get to work with Tim on occasion, but mostly I’ve been doing other tasks.  The staff has been great to work with, and I’ve been learning lots of new things, which I always enjoy.

Hard at Work

Both Tim and I have had to spend a lot of time walking from building to building in the park headquarters area, where the roadways are under construction.  I have to confess that my most enduring memory of working at Denali National Park will undoubtedly be this endless construction, constant rain and slippery mud.  Employees at the park have had to deal with construction for the last three years, and I really do feel for them.  They are ready for it to be over.

Walking Through the Rain and Mud

Dodging Construction Equipment

One of the perks of volunteering at least 32 hours per week at Denali National Park is that our campground fees are covered by the park.  That is especially nice when the rates top $40 per night for full hookups.  Volunteers are also encouraged to get out into the park, and we are given a voucher for a trip on one of the park shuttle buses. 

Our friend Kathleen has gone out of her way to make our lives very easy while we are here.  Not only did she let us stay with her last weekend, but she also picked up groceries for us while she was in Fairbanks last Monday.  The tiny markets here only carry a few items, so that was a huge help.  Kathleen also gives us a ride to and from work every day, which is especially nice since we are traveling without a car in Alaska.  We can leave Kitty behind at the campground and not have to try and find a place to park the RV.

Watching the Trees Change Colors Day by Day on Our Way Home From Work

I actually took the day off today (volunteers are only required to work 32 hours per week), since our propane gauge registered empty.  Although I had thought about using my bus voucher to venture farther into the park today, my priority was driving to the nearby town of Healy to fill up with propane so we would have heat tonight.  I also wanted to see if I could find a somewhat larger space heater than our tiny one.  Have I mentioned that it’s been really cold?  The trip was a success.

Before I left, however, I decided to drive the RV to mile 15 in the park, which is as far as private vehicles are permitted.  At least I would get to see a little bit of the park today.  Much of the landscape was enshrouded in clouds, and visibility was limited, but the drive was still beautiful. It even snowed for a while, but the sun tried to peek through the clouds from time to time.

Driving the Park Road

Hoping for the Sun to Peek Out

Fresh snow blanketed the nearby mountains, and fall colors reminded me that winter is not far away in this part of the world.  The snow added a new element to the park experience. 

Loving the Fall Colors

Walking Along the Savage River

Looking Down at the River

Deciding that It's Just Too Cold for a Hike

Noticing the Little Things - Snow on Mushrooms

Enjoying the Breathtaking Views

Hoping to See Wildlife

Admiring the Snow-Covered Mountains

Moose rutting season has already begun, and photographers were lined up along the side of the road to capture the action.  I stopped and watched for a short while, and I was even able to see a bull moose in the distance – the first one for me this summer.

That Seems Quite Tasty

I Can See You

Viewing Bears in Action at Brooks Falls

Bear viewing is a big business in Homer.  A dozen or more companies offer trips to various locations to seek out these magnificent creatures.  This was definitely something I wanted to look into.  We could have taken a shorter flight to nearby beaches to see bears, but I had it in my head that I wanted to go all the way to Brooks Camp in Katmai National Park to see the bears in action. 

I wanted to see for myself that iconic view of a grizzly bear perched atop Brooks Falls, catching a salmon in his mouth.  Watching salmon leap over the falls in their heroic attempt to reach their spanning grounds would be an added bonus.  Yes, it was a longer flight to Brooks Camp, and much more expensive, but I didn’t care.  That’s what I wanted to do, and Tim was happy to indulge me.

Our flight to Brooks Camp was scheduled for Saturday, but the fickle weather forced a cancellation.  I really didn’t want to miss this trip, so we decided to stay a few extra days in Homer and reschedule the flight for Monday.  As it turned out the company had to rebook us on an afternoon flight with another outfit, which turned out to be Adventure Airways.  Once again, Trent was to be our pilot.  We were thrilled because we had had such a great time with him on the flight the previous day to Lake Clark National Park.

It was a much clearer day when we took off from Homer at 2:00 pm for our eight-hour adventure.  Dramatic clouds created an interesting backdrop as we flew over Cook Inlet.  As we were flying high over a cloud bank, I looked out the window and noticed the reflection of the plane below.  The reflection was encircled by a rainbow.  That was such a cool sight!  Trent says that happens sometimes, and I was so happy to have seen it.

The Reflection of Our Plane Encircled by a Rainbow

Although I had expected beautiful views on the flight to Brooks Camp, my focus had been on the bears.  I hadn’t thought too much about what we might see on the way.  That was just as well since we flew high over the mountains and the clouds obscured most of our view.  We encountered a heavy rainstorm, and for a brief while we were flying through clouds with no visibility whatsoever.  I wasn’t exactly afraid, but it was certainly an eerie feeling.  It was still raining when we arrived at Brooks Camp, but we had expected that – it seems to be raining there more often than not.  In Alaska, one should never leave home without raingear.

Would the Clouds Obstruct our Views?

Once we landed at Brooks Camp, I found out how lucky we were to have arrived on an afternoon flight.  We discovered that most of the other day trippers were just getting ready to fly out.  What luck!  What could have been us and dozens or even hundreds of other visitors turned out to be just us and a handful of people, most of whom were staying at Brooks Lodge.  I could not believe our good fortune.

Just a brief planning tip before I proceed to describe our day.  For anyone contemplating a day trip to Brooks Camp, I would highly recommend an afternoon flight so you can see the bears without jostling for space on the viewing platforms.  We were told that people typically have to wait an hour or more just to reach the platform since only a limited number of people are permitted at one time.  Then, you can only stay for less than an hour to make room for others.  By arriving later in the day, we did not have to wait to reach the platform, which we shared with only a handful of people, plus we could stay as long as we wanted.  It was heavenly.

Now, back to the story.  We arrived at Brooks Camp and were ushered to the visitor center for a “bear etiquette” talk, which outlined park regulations, safety rules, etc.  We had to leave all food behind in the food locker, since no food is permitted outside a fenced-in area near the visitor center.  After that, we were free to go.

There are three elevated viewing platforms along the Brooks River where people can view bears.  The platforms were designed not only for visitor safety, but also to protect the bears.  Tim and I followed the 1.2 mile path to the main viewing platform at the falls and were immediately awestruck at the sight of 15 brown bears.  The scene before us was just like the one I’d seen in photos and wildlife documentaries, only a hundred times better.  We were right there, so close.  

This Is the Scene that Greeted Us at Brooks Falls

It Was a Thrill to See the Bears Up Close

I cannot describe how exciting it was to view the bears in action.  We were not watching bears in a zoo or a rehabilitation center.  They were in their natural habitat doing what bears do.  And we had the privilege of being there with them.

With so many bears to look at, it was hard to know where to focus my attention.  I decided to concentrate on the large males standing at the top of the falls.  These were the bears who tried to catch the salmon in their mouths as the fish hurled themselves over the falls.  I quickly learned that some bears were better fishermen than others.  They all seemed to get their fill, however.  

I'm Going to Catch You

Oh No, Which One Should I Go For? 

I Won't Miss This Time

Gotcha!

This One's Mine!

While the larger males claimed their spots at the top of the falls, others stood at the base and would dive into the water to catch their fish.  Each bear had his own technique.

Diving Is a Popular Technique

That's Tasty

How About Saving a Morsel for Me?

How Do You Like My Technique?

Mostly it was the males who dominated the area around the falls.  We watched as a sow and her three cubs tried to get close, but were usually pushed back.  We especially enjoyed watching the mother teach her cubs how to fish.  Several times she would catch a salmon and make the cubs fight for it.  It was also fun to watch the young bears play-fighting with one another.

Follow Me, Children

I Wonder If the Big Boys Will Let Us Get a Little Closer

Now Children, This Is How to Fight for a Fish

 But Mom, Why Does Junior Always Get the Fish?

Just Stick By Me and I'll Teach You Everything I Know

Let's Play

For the most part the bears got along with each other and respected each other’s territories.  There were occasional scuffles, but that was not common.

This Is My Spot, Find Your Own

Peaceful Coexistence

Maybe There's Room for All of Us

One thing we learned was that Alaska’s brown bears and grizzly bears are now considered to be one species.  Brown bears are larger than grizzlies because of their rich diet of salmon.  In the short time we were there, several bears had caught and eaten at least ten salmon.  No wonder they get so large.

I stood by the platform railing and stared at the bears for several hours.  I was mesmerized.  Even when it started to rain, I didn’t move.  Thanks to a good rain jacket and rain pants, I barely noticed the weather, which is highly unusual for me.  I tried my best to capture the action with my little camera, and I was impressed with how well it did.  Patience was the key, however, to capturing the moment when a bear actually caught a fish.  

I Think I've Got Him

  

I Wonder if I Can I Catch Both of Them?

I know I could have stood on the platform much longer, but after a few hours it seemed to be time to go.  I was satisfied with my short time there.  Yes, it might have been nice to spend the night and go back several times, but for that you must make reservations more than a year in advance.  Tim and I experienced more in just a few hours than some people experience in several days.  Our timing could not have been better.  We arrived during the peak salmon run, which attracts the largest number of bears to the falls, and we arrived late in the day, which attracts the smallest number of people to the platforms.  I couldn’t have asked for anything more.  I had witnessed what I had come to see.

Tim and I Were Grinning from Ear to Ear

Without a doubt this was one of the most amazing experiences I’ve ever had.  It was a totally different adventure than the trip to Lake Clark National Park, and even more magical.  Here, we were closer to the largest land predators on the continent than I had ever imagined, witnessing nature in all its glory.  This was also one of the most expensive day trips I’ve ever taken, but it was well worth it.  Once again, I can’t believe how lucky we are to be able to take advantage of such opportunities.

Even if you can’t watch the bears at Katmai in person, it is still possible for anyone to see them in action.  The National Park Service had five live-streaming bearcams that bring the bears directly to your computer screen.  During the peak months of the salmon run, as many as 18,000 viewers from all over the world tune in and get to known the personalities of the individual bears.  It’s definitely worth watching.

I realize that I have included way more photographs that usual, since I just couldn’t seem to choose which ones to include.  Therefore, I’ll save the photographs from our return flight to Homer for the next post.

A Cruise in Kenai Fjords National Park

Travelers who wish to take a boat tour in a new area are often confronted with a plethora of opportunities.  Typically, there are several competing companies, and each company may have several offerings.  That was the scenario that Tim and I faced when we were trying to book a cruise from Seward to Kenai Fjords National Park.  How to choose, how to choose?

Kenai Fjords Tours came highly recommended by several people, and options ranged from a dinner cruise to a nine-hour tour.  We read far fewer comments about Major Marine Tours, but we decided to look at the offerings for both.  Ultimately, we ended up choosing one of the tours with Major Marine.  There were several factors that led us to that decision.

First, we wanted a tour that was long enough to get all of the way into Kenai Fjords National Park.  We also preferred a smaller boat.  But for us, the deciding factor was that National Park rangers accompany most of the Major Marine cruises.  Many cruises with Kenai Fjords Tours include a stop at an island with a presentation by a National Park ranger, but we weren’t too interested in spending time on an island.  We also eliminated the longest tour offered by Major Marine on the smallest boat because no ranger would be on board.  So, after careful consideration, we selected the seven and one-half hour tour on a relatively small boat.  Decision made!

Did we make the right decision?  We will never know.  We do know that we thoroughly enjoyed our tour and that the presentation by Ranger Chad added so much to our experience.  With that said, I’m guessing that almost any cruise would have been an amazing experience.

We had selected Saturday for our cruise because the weather forecast was a bit more promising than the steady rain that Seward had been experiencing.  It was still cloudy when we headed out of the harbor into Resurrection Bay on the Orca Song.  Within ten minutes, we had our first wildlife sighting of the day – sea otters swimming not too far from shore.  Those little critters are always such a treat to watch.

The Orca Song - It Was Sunny When We Returned to the Dock

Leaving the Harbor

Clouds Over Resurrection Bay

See Otters Always Elicit a Smile

Once we rounded Aialik Cape and cruised into Aialik Bay, we were finally in Kenai Fjords National Park.  Kenai Fjords National Park is a land of ice.  The Harding Icefield covers over half of the park, and nearly 40 glaciers flow from this massive ice sheet expanse.  Fjords created by the receding ice provide access to many of the tidewater glaciers.  Aialik Bay is one of these fjords.

Soon after crossing into the bay, we had our second significant wildlife sighting, and one that I was most looking forward to – orca, or killer, whales.  We joined several other boats, and it appeared as if each one tried to reposition itself for the best views.  Although I was thrilled to see orcas for the first time since arriving in Alaska, the experience was a bit disconcerting.  The boats seemed to form a circle around the whales, as if we were rounding them up.  I have to trust that our behavior was not harmful to the whales, but I’m not so sure.  I was almost relieved when we finally moved on.

What Magnificent Creatures

The Orcas Stayed Around for Quite a While

Everyone Had a Great View

It was now time to visit a few glaciers.  As we made our way into Holgate Arm, we caught our first glimpse of a blue sky, which provided a perfect backdrop for the two arms of Holgate Glacier.  This tidewater glacier may be one of the smaller ones that we’ve seen, but it was still a beautiful sight.  The jagged peaks stood out so clearly against the sky, and the color was stunning as always.

I Think That's Blue Sky Ahead

The West Arm of Holgate Glacier

Holgate Glacier

An added treat while stopped at Holgate Glacier was watching a lone kayaker making his way among the sea of ice.  He looked so small out there, almost minuscule against the face of the glacier.  That was a brave soul.

Jagged Peaks Pierce the Sky

Kayaker vs. Glacier

After waiting with little success for Holgate Glacier to provide us some calving action, we moved on and back into Aialik Bay.  Our longer tour gave us the opportunity to also visit Aialik Glacier, and it was a sight to behold.  Although its size cannot compare to the giant Columbia Glacier that we visited while we were in Valdez, I was still impressed.  I must admit that we’ve been spoiled.  However, size isn’t everything!  In some ways Aialik Glacier was more impressive because it stood out so against the deep blue sky.  I was happy to stand out on deck and just stare.   

Aialik Glacier Is a Magnificent Thing to See

One Side of Aialik Glacier

It Was Hard to Stop Taking Photos

Once again, we saw very little calving, but I was happy with all that we did see.  A sailboat and several small tour boats joined us in front of the glacier, but I didn’t mind because they provided a sense of scale that was otherwise difficult to judge.  These glaciers are much taller than they first appear to be.

A Sailboat Provides a Little Perspective on Size

We were also in a perfect spot to watch harbor seals as they lounged on the chunks of ice floating in the bay.  This was our best opportunity so far to study these lovable mammals, and they didn’t seem to mind our presence.

Is He Smiling?

Is It Time for a Swim?

I Hope This Ice Doesn't Melt

Sailing Away from Aialik Bay

On our way back to Seward we stopped to visit nesting areas for several of the seabirds that can be found in these waters.  We also were treated to another visit by a pod of orcas, and these whales stayed with us for quite some time.  At one point, a few humpback whales joined in, which Ranger Chad thought was somewhat unusual. 

A Perfect Spot for Nesting Seabirds

It's Always a Thrill to Spot Whales

Let's Stick Together

Synchronized Swimmers

Tim and I really enjoyed our cruise with Major Marine Tours.  Ranger Chad shared so much with us, and it was clear that he really loves what he is doing.  He is a retired schoolteacher who moved to Seward about 30 years.  He fell in love with the region and now enjoys sharing this special place with others.  His enthusiasm was contagious.

Since arriving in Alaska, Tim and I have taken three cruises in different parts of the state to view glaciers and wildlife.  I cannot imagine visiting Alaska without getting out on the water.  Although these cruises shared certain similarities, I will remember each one for different reasons.  For example, I will especially remember the cruise in Glacier Bay National Park for the wilderness experience that it offered, as well as the unusually perfect weather that we experienced.  Those are two things that we have encountered nowhere else.  

The enormity of the glacier itself was the highlight of the Columbia Glacier cruise in Prince William Sound.  I’ve never been so close to a glacier that large.  Our first orca sightings and Ranger Chad’s insights are what I will take with me from our day in Kenai Fjords National Park.  He is a great ambassador for the National Park Service.  And, of course, it goes without saying that I will remember each glacier and all of the wildlife that we were able to see.