A Memorable 4th of July in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

When we awoke on July 4, I was excited to see a bit of blue sky beginning to peek out from behind the clouds.  Even better, the previous day’s haze was gone.  This was a promising start to a day of flightseeing.  Tim and I arrived at the Chitina Airport (it was really no more than a dirt airstrip) and boarded our six-seater plane for the thirty-minute trip to McCarthy.  I sat in the co-pilot’s seat and had a bird’s-eye view as we flew over the Copper River and began our climb toward the mountains that dominate Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. 

Even in the air, it was difficult to grasp the enormity and scale of this small section of the national park.  The Wrangell Mountains were not just snow-capped, they were totally enveloped with snow.  And the glaciers.  We seemed to pass one after another, one more splendid than the next. 

What a View!

Bill, our pilot, gave us a running commentary on what we were seeing, but I’m not even going to try and remember the names of the individual mountain peaks or glaciers that we saw.  Bill was especially excited as we approached Fourth of July Pass.  How appropriate to be flying through there on Independence Day.

The already-amazing scenery got even more awesome as we emerged from the pass and caught our first glimpse of the Kennicott Glacier.  This glacier is 27 miles long, and we could see part of its circuitous route as it made its way down the slopes of Mt. Blackburn.  We flew past nearby Root and Gates glaciers that merge with the Kennicott Glacier to form a massive sea of ice that terminates near the town of McCarthy.  Wow!  The views were simply breathtaking.  So much ice!  So much majesty!  So much beauty!

Kennicott and Gates Glaciers

Glacial Moraine

A River of Ice

Reflections Next to the Glacial Moraine

We landed at McCarthy and soon learned that the Fourth of July is the biggest day of the year in this tiny town.  We had somehow stumbled upon a down-home celebration.  People from all over Alaska were arriving for the festivities, which included a parade, games and general merriment.  We could feel the excitement in the air, and everyone seemed to be delighted to be there.  Many people had flown in on their own small planes, and it was quite a surprise to see a row of planes and tents at the airstrip.  We are finding out that things are different in Alaska – in the Lower 48, people go car camping; here, they seem to go plane camping.

Tim and I had some time to wander around McCarthy, and we really felt that we were in a frontier community.  We were disappointed to learn that we would miss the parade since we would need to catch an earlier shuttle to Kennecott.  This was not to be any ordinary small town parade.  We were proudly told that this one was a bit more unusual, maybe even a bit R-rated.  We later found out that the “costume” worn by our afternoon tour guide included a bare butt!

McCarthy, Alaska - An "End of the Road" Town

An Alaska Frontier Town

Ready for the Fourth of July

The shuttle took us five miles to the Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark, the major attraction for history buffs in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.  Before I tell you about this site, let me address the question of spelling.  Which is correct – Kennicott or Kennecott?  That was a question I had asked.  The natural features in the area, including the glacier, valley and river, are spelled Kennicott after Alaska explorer Robert Kennicott.  The mining company, mines and mill town are spelled Kennecott, which is actually a misspelling of the local name.

Entrance to Kennecott Mines National Historic District

Kennecott was established in 1900 following the discovery of one of the world’s richest concentrations of high grade copper ore in the mountains above Kennicott Glacier.  Kennecott is considered to be the best remaining example of early twentieth century copper mining in the United States and is an amazing relic of America’s industrial past.  During its heyday, Kennecott was a self-contained company town, and it contained 100 buildings, including bunkhouses, a hospital and recreation hall for the miners who lived and worked in this remote and wild place.   

Kennecott from the Air

Ready to Spend the Afternoon at Kennecott

West Bunkhouse and Refrigeration Plant

When the company closed the mines in 1938, virtually everything was left behind, from the machinery in the mill to the dishes on the tables.  Kennecott became an instant ghost town, and it still appears to be virtually frozen in time.  Today, the buildings are in varying states of preservation, from completely restored to ruins.  The National Park Service has acquired many of the structures and is in the process of stabilizing and rehabilitating them.  What a mammoth undertaking that is proving to be. 

Before our afternoon tour, Tim and I took the time to check out the visitor center, watch the film and wander around to get a sense of the town.  We walked near the edge of the Kennicott Glacier, which is in the town’s front yard, although what you see today is the glacial moraine, not ice.  Although the town is within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, many of the buildings are still privately owned, and one of those is Kennicott Glacier Lodge.  That’s where we had lunch, and it turned out to be the best meal we’ve had since leaving Haines.  We never could have guessed that we would find such high quality food in the most remote place we’ve visited.

The Glacial Moraine Is Directly in Front of the Town

View from Kennicott Glacier Lodge

The most iconic and impressive structure in town is the 14-story Kennecott Concentration Mill, and the only way to go inside is with a guide.  I was surprised to learn that the National Park Service does not give tours.  Instead, St. Elias Alpine Guides has the concession, so we joined four other people for an afternoon tour. 

The 14-Story Concentration Mill Is the Most Iconic Building at Kennecott

The Power Plant Supported both the Mill Town and the Mines

I won’t even pretend to try and explain the process for concentrating, crushing and sorting the copper ore, although I found the description interesting.  Darren, our guide, did a great job in helping us make sense of what we were seeing.  What fascinated me the most was the building itself.  This is one of the tallest timber frame buildings in the country, and its construction on a series of terraces that stair-step up the 36 degree slope of a mountain is still mind boggling.  We were required to wear hardhats for the tour, and I am still surprised that the National Park Service allows people inside the mill building.  Maybe that’s why the tours are given by a concessionaire.  I never felt unsafe inside, but I did note that the stairs were very steep, some of the wood railings were rickety and debris was everywhere.  I’ve never toured any structure like this one, and I’m so glad we were able to see it.

This Is Where We Entered the Concentration Mill Building

Hardhats Required

Darren Was a Great Guide

Darren Explained the Process To Us

The Scale of the Machinery Was Huge

Everything Was Left Behind

Kennecott Copper Corp. - Kennecott, Alaska

A Great Tour of the Mill

Our time in Kennecott was way too short.  Had it not been for the cat, we would have spent the night in McCarthy or Kennecott.  It would have been great to hike on the Root glacier, but we couldn’t do that and our tour.  It was a tough choice, but I’m still glad we chose the mill tour. 

We returned to McCarthy for our return flight to Chitina.  This time we were in a four-seater, and I let Tim have the co-pilot’s seat.  Nice, aren’t I?  The sky was a bit hazy, but the scenery was still magnificent.  I had the back seat to myself and could easily catch the views on both sides of the plane.  Tim and I were really impressed with Wrangell Mountain Air and our pilots.  Bill and Martin were personable, knowledgeable and professional, just what you want in a bush pilot.  They also seemed to love what they were doing, and I’d fly with them again any day.

Returning Through Fourth of July Pass

Mt. Drum Was Visible

Planes of Wrangell Mountain Air - On the Way Out, and On the Way Back

Kitty Didn't Get to Fly with Us,
But Martin Let Her Try Out the Plane

Because we were tired from a long day, we decided to leave the RV parked at the airstrip in Chitina and just spend the night there.  It may have been a parking lot, but the views were great.  Without a doubt, this was the most memorable Fourth of July I’ve ever had.

On the Way to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

Tok is often referred to as “Mainstreet Alaska,” partly because everyone driving to or from the state must pass through this town.  Tok is where you are faced with a major decision.  Do you travel toward Fairbanks and then counter-clockwise around the state, or do you head toward Valdez and/or Anchorage and then clockwise?

If it’s sunny in Valdez, the advice is to go there, since that town is best appreciated when the sun is out.  Other determining factors include weather in general and the location of any forest fires.  Of course, if you’ve already made reservations somewhere, your decision is an easy one.

If you are still unsure, the Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Tok has a wealth of trip-planning information for the entire state and is worth a stop.  We were able to pick up a handy map for $1.00 with all of the public campgrounds depicted.

Tim and I had considered both options before we left Haines and had decided to go clockwise and make Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and then Valdez our first destinations.  We even went so far as to make reservations for a day trip into the national park on July 4.  We were actually surprised that we had no trouble getting tickets for a holiday weekend.

We left Tok on July 3, the start of the three-day weekend, and drove southwest on the Tok Cutoff toward Glennallen.  For the second half of the drive, the road skirts the edge of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, and I’m told that the mountains there are spectacular.  Unfortunately, those mountains were hiding behind clouds and the haze from forest fires.  That was a disappointment, but the drive was still beautiful, especially when the mighty Copper River came into view.

Mountains Obscured by Clouds and Haze

The Mighty Copper River Is a Braided River

We spotted four moose beside the road, including a baby who hadn’t yet learned that the road itself is no place to hang out.  Hopefully, he learned his lesson as a large truck drove past and scared him.  No one got hurt, and we watched him and his mama scurry back into the woods where they would be much safer.

Getting a Little Too Close to the Highway

Get Out of the Road!

We picked up the Richardson Highway and stopped at the main visitor center for Wrangell-St. Elias National Park just six miles south of Glennallen.  We watched the film, toured the exhibits and learned a lot about this little-known park.  Wrangell-St. Elias is the nation’s largest national park.  It’s so large, in fact, that six Yellowstones could fit within its boundaries.  Four mountain ranges meet in the park, and nine of the sixteen highest peaks in the United States are located here.  It seems as if the park is all about numbers and scale, and isolation.

The Visitor Center for Wrangell-St. Elias National Park Is Not Even In the Park

The park is also very new.  Wrangell-St. Elias did not become a national park until 1980.  Most of the park is wilderness, and only two small roads penetrate a portion of the interior.  If you don’t want to drive the unpaved roads, there is another option – flying.  Flightseeing is one way to view the mountains and glaciers and attempt to grasp the enormity of this untamed land.

There are also scheduled flights that take off from the small airstrip at Chitina and land in McCarthy, where you can walk around the town for a bit and then travel five miles to the Kennecott mill town, the best remaining example of early twentieth century copper mining in the United States.  That’s the tour that Tim and I had booked.

To get to Chitina we traveled the Edgerton Highway and began to get a glimpse or two of the Wrangell Mountains that typically make this drive so scenic.  We had decided to forego staying at a campground and began our search for a suitable boondock site.  Although we knew that there were great sites on the Copper River just past Chitina, we were arriving on the Friday of a holiday weekend.  Plus, the salmon were running, and we knew that every available spot would be filled with fishermen and their families out to enjoy a great Independence Day.

If You Look Closely, You Can See the Massive, Snow-Covered Wrangell Mountains Above the Trees

Just past the airstrip, we passed a series of lakes alongside the highway.  There were pull-offs that we knew would work, but we decided to explore a little more.  Just past One Mile Lake, we spotted a large tent along the shore.  We pulled into the little road to see if there might be more than one site.  Although that was the only site along the lake, there was another spot nearby that was perfect for us.  It was just our size, and had clearly been used as a campsite in the past since there was a fire ring.  We backed in, leveled up and settled in.  We congratulated ourselves on finding such a great spot for our first boondock of the Alaska trip.  To make things even better, we were amazed to discover that we had Verizon 4G service – in a boondock site!  That’s the first 4G we’ve had in six weeks!  We were happy campers.

Our Boondock Site

Our Site Wasn't On One Mile Lake, But It Was Close

Stay tuned for our memorable Independence Day in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.

Highway from Hell?

Anyone who contemplates driving an RV to Alaska has heard horror stories about the road conditions on the Alaska Highway.  Anything from broken windshields to virtual destruction of a rig are common tales.  As we were about to venture onto the highway for the first time, I wasn’t sure what to believe.

After a not-so-quick stop at the Village Bakery in Haines Junction to partake of some free WiFi, we turned north onto the Alaska Highway.  The highway skirts the eastern side of the Kluane Ranges, and the view to our left of the snow-capped mountains was magical.  We followed these and other mountain ranges for most of the day.

Beautiful Mountain Scenery

Snow-capped Peaks

Kluane Lake soon came into view in front of us.  This lake is the largest in the Yukon and is said to be the prettiest.  As we followed its shore, I had to agree with that assessment (even though I’ve only seen a few lakes in the Yukon).  For a brief moment I regretted that we had not made it as far as the lake yesterday.  That’s where we had planned to camp last night.  I could see spending a lovely and relaxing week camped along the shore.  Some other time perhaps.

Our First Glimpse of Kluane Lake

It Is a Very Pretty Lake

The warnings about the road conditions began as soon as we passed the lake.  We watched for the telltale signs for frost heaves, as well as the small flags that indicate road damage.  We took it slow through those sections and didn’t think it was a big deal.  As soon as we crossed Donjek River, however, things started to become more “interesting.”

Do Not Ignore these Warning Signs!

Road damage became more frequent, and pot holes added to the excitement.  Construction signs soon appeared, and we were on a gravel roadbed.  A safe speed seemed to be about 20 mph, but large trucks and even other RVs decided that we were slowpokes and passed us at high speeds, throwing gravel back at us.  The icing on the cake was the near-constant washboard sections of the gravel roadbed. 

I Couldn't Believe How this Stretch of Gravel Could Shake the RV So Much

I thought the RV was going to shake apart, even though we were just creeping along.  Although I had carefully secured everything inside the RV, an upper cabinet door flew open and Kitty’s food dish, which had been braced, slid across the floor.  We finally were able to pull over near the side of the road so I could at least close the cabinet door.  What had saved everything from flying out was the tension rod that I always place across the inside of the cabinet.  

I was never so happy to reach solid pavement.  The remaining frost heaves and pavement breaks were like a walk in the park after that horrid stretch of gravel.  We began to look for a rest area so we could stop and assess the damage, and we finally reached Pickhandle Lake, which turned out to be a particularly scenic place to take a break.  We were really fortunate to spot no apparent damage to the inside or outside of the RV.  I didn’t even mind the dirt and mud.

Pickhandle Lake Was a Great Place to Take a Break

Mama Duck and Her Playful Ducklings Provided a Nice Diversion

As soon as we got back on the road, we reached another construction zone.  Oh no!  This one involved a pilot car, but the gravel surface had been graded so it was relatively smooth.  Before too long we reached the Canada-U.S. International Border where we stopped for a photo op.  Customs was a breeze, and the agent even thanked us for making her laugh for the first time that day.

This Section Really Wasn't Bad at All

Welcome (Back) to Alaska

I suggested that we stop at the first campground we could find, and that is exactly what we did.  I wanted to give Tim a break after his exhausting day at the wheel, and I had hoped we could find a campground with TV and WiFi at the site.  That was a pipe dream, but Border City Lodge and RV Park seemed good enough so we pulled in and finally got off the road. 

After doing a bit of reading, I have learned that the section of highway on which we just drove is the worst part of the Alaska Highway.  It is today, and it always has been.  Engineers have yet to find a way to deal with the permafrost and glacial soil that makes roadbuilding so challenging.  We passed a portion of the Alaska Highway Permafrost Research Project, which is testing specialized construction techniques.  I hope they are successful.

This post is not meant to scare RVers from driving the Alaska Highway.  Most of the road is in relatively good condition if you drive at an appropriate speed.  The section that we just drove will likely be paved by the end of the summer.  Just take the necessary precautions, secure everything in your RV, including your pets, and take your time.

After our eventful day yesterday, we slept in and awoke to rain.  As we were debating what to do today, we spotted a fox outside our rear windows.  We decided on the spur of the moment to drive only as far as Tok, just under 100 miles away.  Unfortunately, the weather obscured much of our view as we passed through the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, but we did see a few trumpeter swans along the way.

The highlight of the drive was spotting a mama moose and her youngster in the grassy area beside the road.  There was no traffic, so we were able to stop and watch them for several minutes.  They didn’t seem to mind our presence.

Mama and Baby Moose Didn't Seem to Mind Our Presence

What's for Lunch?

Tim and I arrived in Tok, took care of a few chores and made our way to the Sourdough Campground just outside of town.  The campground had come highly recommended, and we were delighted with what we found.  The layout and setting reminded me more of a public campground than a typical private one.  The campsites are huge, very private and set among lots of tall trees.  There is an onsite restaurant, and the new owner’s specialty is reindeer chili in a sourdough bowl.  It was delicious.

Reindeer Chili Was Delicious

Tim and I even participated in the campground’s sourdough pancake toss after dinner, which was highly unusual for us.  The owner invites everyone for a silly, but amusing, game, and most people end up participating.  The goal is to toss a limp pancake into a “buckit,” and the audience is required to clap and cheer.  Although Tim and I failed in our toss, we made a valiant effort.  I think we were a bit surprised that we actually enjoyed ourselves.

Sarah and Tim Being Silly

Good-bye Southeast Alaska, Hello Yukon

After six wonderful weeks, it was finally time to end the first phase of our summer adventure and leave Southeast Alaska.  Our time here seemed to fly by, and we thoroughly enjoyed our extended stay.  I’m so glad we originally set aside a month to visit the many towns along the Inside Passage.  This area is very special and getting around by ferry has been a unique experience. 

On Tuesday morning we put the RV in gear and headed north on the Haines Highway.  Destination – the Yukon and the interior of Alaska.  Thus began the start of the second phase of our adventure.  This area is much more of an unknown to us as we’ve done only a bit of research on what there is to see.  We have no plans and only a general idea of the direction in which we are headed.  Southeast Alaska was much more scripted.  Now we’ll be flying by the seat of our pants.  I can’t wait!

After a quick stop at the grocery store, we were on the road by 10:30 am, which is pretty good for us.  We aren’t exactly morning people, although we’ve had our fair share of early mornings so far.  The skies were overcast, but no rain was forecast, and I was looking forward to getting back on the road.

The Haines Highway has been designated as a National Scenic Byway, and the road lived up to its reputation.  We followed the Chilkat and Klehini Rivers before reaching the Canadian border after just 40 miles.  Entering into Canada could not have been easier.  Just the few standard questions and a quick scan of our passports, and we were on our way.  Tim was happy he didn’t have to stop at Immigration this time.  After passing through the northern tip of British Columbia, we soon crossed into the Yukon. 

A Scenic Viewpoint along the Klehini River

No One at the Border

Welcome to British Columbia

And Then, Welcome to the Yukon

Despite the overcast skies, the drive was just as beautiful as I had hoped.  We climbed from the coastal forests to the alpine tundra and were treated to stunning glacier and mountain views in all directions.  As we climbed to the Chilkat Pass summit, the clouds were especially dramatic.

Climbing toward the Alpine Tundra

Clouds at Chilkat Pass, the Haines Highway Summit

A Wide Alpine Valley

We really felt as if we were in the middle of a vast wilderness.  For the most part we were alone on the highway.  We passed only a handful of cars and RVs heading south, but no one was going in our direction. 

One of a Handful of Other Vehicles on the Highway

The road was in great condition, except for a several-mile stretch that was under construction.  While we waited for the pilot car to guide us through the construction zone, we had a nice chat with the flagger.  I’m sure this road will spoil us for what we know to be ahead.  We’ve heard the warnings for the section of the Alaska Highway on which we will soon be driving.

Construction Zone

In addition to the dramatic scenery, the highlight of the day was seeing a large bear crossing the highway just in front of us.  Tim and I both spotted him at the same time, we and were able to stop and watch him for a short while before he disappeared into the woods.  That was very cool!  It’s also how I like to see bears – from the safe confines of the RV.

Stop, I Want to Take Your Photograph

Don't Hide from Me

We had thought we would drive about 240 miles today, but we forgot about losing an hour as we crossed into Canada, plus we hadn’t driven in quite a long time.  So, after only 135 miles we pulled into Kluane National Park and decided to stop for the day. 

Kluane contains the largest non-polar icefields in the world, as well as Canada’s highest mountain, Mount Logan.  Kluane National Park and Reserve, Wrangell-St. Elias and Glacier Bay National Parks in Alaska and Tatshenshini-Alsek Park in British Columbia form the largest internationally protected area in the world.  This enormous area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is recognized as a globally significant mountain wilderness.

Kathleen Lake is one of the very few developed areas within Kluane National Park, and that was our destination.  Because it was very windy and cold at the lake, we didn’t tarry.  Instead we headed directly to Kathleen Lake Campground and settled in for the evening.  Only a few campsites have a slight view of the lake through the trees, but it’s a beautiful campground, and it’s nice to be back in a more natural setting, with lots of privacy, once again.

A Prettier View of Kathleen Lake in Kluane National Park the Next Morning

Mountain Wildflowers along the Way