A Cruise in Kenai Fjords National Park

Travelers who wish to take a boat tour in a new area are often confronted with a plethora of opportunities.  Typically, there are several competing companies, and each company may have several offerings.  That was the scenario that Tim and I faced when we were trying to book a cruise from Seward to Kenai Fjords National Park.  How to choose, how to choose?

Kenai Fjords Tours came highly recommended by several people, and options ranged from a dinner cruise to a nine-hour tour.  We read far fewer comments about Major Marine Tours, but we decided to look at the offerings for both.  Ultimately, we ended up choosing one of the tours with Major Marine.  There were several factors that led us to that decision.

First, we wanted a tour that was long enough to get all of the way into Kenai Fjords National Park.  We also preferred a smaller boat.  But for us, the deciding factor was that National Park rangers accompany most of the Major Marine cruises.  Many cruises with Kenai Fjords Tours include a stop at an island with a presentation by a National Park ranger, but we weren’t too interested in spending time on an island.  We also eliminated the longest tour offered by Major Marine on the smallest boat because no ranger would be on board.  So, after careful consideration, we selected the seven and one-half hour tour on a relatively small boat.  Decision made!

Did we make the right decision?  We will never know.  We do know that we thoroughly enjoyed our tour and that the presentation by Ranger Chad added so much to our experience.  With that said, I’m guessing that almost any cruise would have been an amazing experience.

We had selected Saturday for our cruise because the weather forecast was a bit more promising than the steady rain that Seward had been experiencing.  It was still cloudy when we headed out of the harbor into Resurrection Bay on the Orca Song.  Within ten minutes, we had our first wildlife sighting of the day – sea otters swimming not too far from shore.  Those little critters are always such a treat to watch.

The Orca Song - It Was Sunny When We Returned to the Dock

Leaving the Harbor

Clouds Over Resurrection Bay

See Otters Always Elicit a Smile

Once we rounded Aialik Cape and cruised into Aialik Bay, we were finally in Kenai Fjords National Park.  Kenai Fjords National Park is a land of ice.  The Harding Icefield covers over half of the park, and nearly 40 glaciers flow from this massive ice sheet expanse.  Fjords created by the receding ice provide access to many of the tidewater glaciers.  Aialik Bay is one of these fjords.

Soon after crossing into the bay, we had our second significant wildlife sighting, and one that I was most looking forward to – orca, or killer, whales.  We joined several other boats, and it appeared as if each one tried to reposition itself for the best views.  Although I was thrilled to see orcas for the first time since arriving in Alaska, the experience was a bit disconcerting.  The boats seemed to form a circle around the whales, as if we were rounding them up.  I have to trust that our behavior was not harmful to the whales, but I’m not so sure.  I was almost relieved when we finally moved on.

What Magnificent Creatures

The Orcas Stayed Around for Quite a While

Everyone Had a Great View

It was now time to visit a few glaciers.  As we made our way into Holgate Arm, we caught our first glimpse of a blue sky, which provided a perfect backdrop for the two arms of Holgate Glacier.  This tidewater glacier may be one of the smaller ones that we’ve seen, but it was still a beautiful sight.  The jagged peaks stood out so clearly against the sky, and the color was stunning as always.

I Think That's Blue Sky Ahead

The West Arm of Holgate Glacier

Holgate Glacier

An added treat while stopped at Holgate Glacier was watching a lone kayaker making his way among the sea of ice.  He looked so small out there, almost minuscule against the face of the glacier.  That was a brave soul.

Jagged Peaks Pierce the Sky

Kayaker vs. Glacier

After waiting with little success for Holgate Glacier to provide us some calving action, we moved on and back into Aialik Bay.  Our longer tour gave us the opportunity to also visit Aialik Glacier, and it was a sight to behold.  Although its size cannot compare to the giant Columbia Glacier that we visited while we were in Valdez, I was still impressed.  I must admit that we’ve been spoiled.  However, size isn’t everything!  In some ways Aialik Glacier was more impressive because it stood out so against the deep blue sky.  I was happy to stand out on deck and just stare.   

Aialik Glacier Is a Magnificent Thing to See

One Side of Aialik Glacier

It Was Hard to Stop Taking Photos

Once again, we saw very little calving, but I was happy with all that we did see.  A sailboat and several small tour boats joined us in front of the glacier, but I didn’t mind because they provided a sense of scale that was otherwise difficult to judge.  These glaciers are much taller than they first appear to be.

A Sailboat Provides a Little Perspective on Size

We were also in a perfect spot to watch harbor seals as they lounged on the chunks of ice floating in the bay.  This was our best opportunity so far to study these lovable mammals, and they didn’t seem to mind our presence.

Is He Smiling?

Is It Time for a Swim?

I Hope This Ice Doesn't Melt

Sailing Away from Aialik Bay

On our way back to Seward we stopped to visit nesting areas for several of the seabirds that can be found in these waters.  We also were treated to another visit by a pod of orcas, and these whales stayed with us for quite some time.  At one point, a few humpback whales joined in, which Ranger Chad thought was somewhat unusual. 

A Perfect Spot for Nesting Seabirds

It's Always a Thrill to Spot Whales

Let's Stick Together

Synchronized Swimmers

Tim and I really enjoyed our cruise with Major Marine Tours.  Ranger Chad shared so much with us, and it was clear that he really loves what he is doing.  He is a retired schoolteacher who moved to Seward about 30 years.  He fell in love with the region and now enjoys sharing this special place with others.  His enthusiasm was contagious.

Since arriving in Alaska, Tim and I have taken three cruises in different parts of the state to view glaciers and wildlife.  I cannot imagine visiting Alaska without getting out on the water.  Although these cruises shared certain similarities, I will remember each one for different reasons.  For example, I will especially remember the cruise in Glacier Bay National Park for the wilderness experience that it offered, as well as the unusually perfect weather that we experienced.  Those are two things that we have encountered nowhere else.  

The enormity of the glacier itself was the highlight of the Columbia Glacier cruise in Prince William Sound.  I’ve never been so close to a glacier that large.  Our first orca sightings and Ranger Chad’s insights are what I will take with me from our day in Kenai Fjords National Park.  He is a great ambassador for the National Park Service.  And, of course, it goes without saying that I will remember each glacier and all of the wildlife that we were able to see.

Soggy Seward

Before deciding to boondock on Exit Glacier Road, we made a trip into Seward to have a quick look around.  We wanted to get a sense of the town and see if by chance any waterfront spaces might be available so late in the day.  Seward has set aside a large portion of its waterfront park for nearly 300 campsites, most of which are very close together.  Of course, the few sites directly on the water are the most popular, and all were full.  In fact, we saw very few empty spaces, period. 

Trying to Find a Campsite

Maybe because it was raining, or maybe because we were so overwhelmed by the number of RVs on the streets and in the waterfront campgrounds, but we did not have a great first impression of Seward.  We couldn’t even find a place to park to have dinner in town.  Options were limited to 30-minute, on-street parking spots or all-day lots for $10 since our small RV exceeded the 19-foot maximum for the three-hour lot.  We couldn’t wait to get out of town and back to our quite boondock spot.  On the way we found a place to eat where we had a delicious dinner.  The Salmon Bake Restaurant on Exit Glacier Road prepared the best salmon we’ve had since leaving Sitka.

We mostly stayed put in our boondock spot on Thursday.  It rained all day long, and not just the gentle rain that we’ve become accustomed to, but downpours.  Not a fun day to be sightseeing, so we only ventured out in the afternoon to visit the Alaska SeaLife Center.  This is a small, but very well done aquarium and ocean wildlife rescue center that focuses on Alaska’s marine ecosystems.  It was great to have such a close-up view of the harbor seals and the Stellar sea lions, but our favorite stop was the aviary. 

Who's Steering that Boat?

You Can Watch Me Above the Water

Or Below

This Is a Better Show than TV

The “bird room” was filled with an assortment of sea birds, and of course puffins were the main attraction.  Watching their antics really put a smile on my face.  Tim and I just stood there and let them entertain us for a very long time.  I quickly gave up trying to take photographs of them and decided to simply enjoy the show.

Some of the other birds were just as delightful to watch, even when one unidentified bird tried to dive-bomb us!  However, it wasn’t until we went down to the first level and looked into the underwater tank that I got my biggest chuckle of the day.  If you think puffins are fun to watch on the water and in the air, just try observing them from under the water.  Their little web feet seem to move just as fast as their little wings when they try to fly.  The SeaLife Center is certainly worth a visit, even if it’s not a rainy day.

For an Extra Fee, You Can Feed the Birds

Stars of the Show

A Quite Place Away from the Crowds

By early the next morning we had to move from our boondock site.  The lack of sun had not been kind to our solar panels, and we had no choice but to find hookups.  So, into town we drove as it continued to rain.  There is only one section of the Seward waterfront park with hookups, so that’s where we headed.  Even though it was way before noon, the lot was crowded.  We had not expected to find a waterfront spot, so we were not terribly disappointed.  We were grateful for the one open site on the upper terrace, where we pulled in and hooked up.  We had a slim view of the water between the RVs in front of us.

  

We Settled for an Inland Campsite

I had fully expected to fall in love with Seward.  Everyone else seems to.  Maybe because we didn’t have a great first impression, or perhaps because the rain never seemed to let up, but the town never grew on me.  To me, there seems to be a real disconnect between the historic downtown and the harbor.  Normally, I’m drawn to the historic part of town, but in Seward we seemed to spend our time at the harbor.  It was even difficult to see the boats since a row of buildings stands between the street and the harbor.  I now especially appreciate the town plan in Valdez, since no buildings interfere with the harbor view.

Despite my criticism, Tim and I did enjoy our time in Seward.  We had a great dinner at Ray’s Waterfront Restaurant one night, and we were blessed with very nice neighbors on either side of us in the campground.  The rain mostly cleared out by Friday evening, and the light on the mountains across Resurrection Bay was beautiful.  If you can’t camp on the waterfront, you can walk along there on the very nice bike path.

A Bike Path Extends Along the Waterfront

Heading Back to the Harbor

Looking Across Resurrection Bay

A Nice Time for an Evening Sail

We also booked a cruise through Kenai Fjords National Park while we were in Seward, and that trip was wonderful.  I’ll tell you about that next time.

Inching Our Way Down the Kenai Peninsula

We took our time leaving Wasilla on Tuesday morning, but we eventually made our way through Anchorage and on towards the Kenai Peninsula.  The Seward Highway, which connects Anchorage and Seward, runs along the Turnagain Arm on one side and the Chugach Mountains on the other.  This highway has been designated as both a National Scenic Byway and an All-American Road, and many people consider it to be the most scenic drive in the entire United States.  They might be right.

Turnagain Arm is a fjord that extends to the Gulf of Alaska and is characterized by the second highest tides in North America.  Although the tide was out during our drive, it was still interesting to see the vast mud flats.  Dramatic clouds and clear blue skies provided a spectacular backdrop to the mountain peaks.  The scenery was sublime, but the heavy traffic did keep Tim’s eyes on the road, not on the magnificent views.  It was tempting to stop at every turnout, but we restricted ourselves to just a few.  Maybe on the way back, we’ll take more time.

Gorgeous Scenery Along Turnagain Arm

The High Tide Will Cover these Mud Flats

Driving Along the Shores of Turnagain Arm 

It's Tempting to Stop at Every Turnout

We had thought we would make it to Seward, but our slow start and multiple stops had us rethinking this plan by mid-afternoon.  I had heard great reports about a U.S. Forest Service campground near Portage Glacier, so we decided to see if a site might be available for the evening.  As we turned onto Portage Glacier Road that leads towards Whittier, we also kept our eyes open for possible boondock locations in case there was no availability at the campground.

We drove into Williwaw Campground and were surprised to see quite a few open sites.  It is a beautiful campground, and it would be a great place to spend a day or two or more.  However, I kept thinking about a spot that we had passed that was directly on Portage Creek.  So, Tim and I looked at each other and decided to turn around and see if that boondock site would work for us.

With a good deal of anticipation, we pulled into the turnout, which was virtually hidden from the road by vegetation, and found a wide open space along the creek.  One RV was set up at the east end, but there was lots of room, so we claimed the other end.  We found a place where we could level the RV and settled in for the evening.  We had a beautiful view of the creek and surrounding mountains.  It was a peaceful and lovely place to spend the afternoon and evening.

A Perfect Stop Along Portage Creek

While we were on the road, I had received a telephone call from one of my best friends who told me that she had just been diagnosed with acute leukemia.  The news left me dumbfounded.  These things are not supposed to happen to the people we love.  It doesn’t make matters any easier to know that I am so far away.  I don’t ever remember feeling so helpless.  Spending the afternoon and evening at a peaceful and lovely boondock site was just what I needed to try and process this awful news.

I think I have fallen in love with this whole boondocking thing, at least the Alaska version.  When I first started reading about traveling to Alaska by RV, boondocking was a favorite topic among RVers.  The idea of camping in a beautiful setting, not in the midst of dozens of other RVs, appealed to me.

For me, boondocking in Alaska is not just about camping for free.  That’s certainly nice, but not the major draw.  It’s finding scenic spots and enjoying the natural beauty of the state.  There’s also a bit of adventure involved, and that also can be exciting.  It’s also fun to try and find those special sites.  I know we won’t boondock every night.  Many public campgrounds offer similar experiences, and we will look for those as well.  We will also stay in commercial campgrounds from time to time to take advantage of the amenities that they offer.  I think it’s fun to mix things up a bit.

After a quiet night and leisurely morning, we decided to explore a little bit of the Portage Valley before heading to Seward.  Our first stop was the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, which sits on Portage Lake in front of the rapidly-receding Portage Glacier.  The exhibits and award-winning film offers a glimpse into the natural history of Chugach National Forest and make the center a worthwhile stop. 

Portage Glacier Spills into Portage Lake

After a picnic lunch it was time to rejoin the Seward Highway, where we began our ascent toward Turnagain Pass.  From here to Seward the highway passes through dense spruce and hemlock forests, peaceful mountain meadows and soggy muskegs.  The views of the mountains, canyons, lakes and rivers kept getting better and better, and all I can say to describe the drive is “Wow!”  We didn’t even mind the construction delays as the slower speeds enabled us to spend more time gazing at the splendid views.

Climbing into the Mountains on the Seward Highway

Clouds Add to the Drama

It was mid-afternoon when we finally reached Seward.  I’m still not sure why it takes us so long to drive just over 100 miles.  Every drive in Alaska seems to take twice as long as we’re used to.  We put off driving into town and detoured towards Exit Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park since that afternoon was forecast to be the last rain-free day for a while.

Kenai Fjords National Park is primarily comprised of ice and water, and Exit Glacier is the only section of the park accessible by road.  This seemed to be a good place to hike very close to a glacier.  After checking out the exhibits at the ranger station, we were dismayed to see that rain was imminent.  We don’t like to hike in the rain, so we decided to go only as far as the glacier view. 

After we reached the viewpoint, the rain stopped, so we decided to continue and walked out across the rocky, outwash plain in an attempt to get to the toe of the glacier.  The water stopped us before we could see the toe, but we still had a great view.  Since we had gone that far, it seemed the thing to do to climb to the edge of the glacier.  The rocks were a bit slippery on the trail, but getting so close to the glacier was definitely worth it.  We were able to spend quite a bit of time just admiring the view before others joined us.  We may not have planned to hike as far as we did, but I’m so glad we did.  Next time, however, when Tim says we’re only hiking a nature trail, I’m going to put on my hiking boots and carry water.  We never know where we might end up!

Exit Creek Spills from Exit Glacier

That's As Close As We Could Get to Exit Glacier

Sarah's Turn

Now, Tim's Turn

Looking Across the Outwash Plain from Exit Glacier

On the way to Exit Glacier, we had passed several huge turnouts along the river and decided to boondock there for the night.  We knew it was going to rain, so an asphalt surface seemed to be a much better option than dirt (think mud).  The view out the windows was beautiful, and we enjoyed a pleasant evening.  The rain even lulled us to sleep.

The View from Our Boondock Spot