its Norwegian heritage, Petersburg is another small town on the Inside Passage. Unlike Wrangell, which is actively trying to
woo tourism, Petersburg views tourists as a “necessary evil.” At least, that’s how one Petersburg native
described us in a movie shown at the local museum. I’m not offended, and I actually understand
where he’s coming from.
is a pretty town and is more manicured, and wealthier, than Wrangell. Commercial fishing has a huge presence here,
and the town harbors one of Alaska’s most prosperous fishing fleets. I was surprised to learn that this town of only
3,000 residents was ranked the seventeenth fishing port in the United States by
volume and twelfth by value as of 2013.
That’s a lot of fish.
enjoyed our walking tour of the downtown area and sought out the buildings that
capture the flavor of Alaska’s Little Norway.
One of the first we spotted was the Sons of Norway Hall, which was built
in 1912. Adjacent to the hall is the Valhalla, a replica of a traditional
Viking ship. The center of early
Petersburg was Sing Lee Alley, and many of the town’s historic buildings are
|Sons of Norway Hall|
|Sing Lee Alley|
|Rosemailing - A Traditional Norwegian Art Form|
the towns in Southeast Alaska hold a salmon derby at some point during the
month of May, and Petersburg’s King Salmon Derby was underway during the
Memorial Day weekend. We stopped by the
harbor on our walk and watched as a man presented his salmon for a
weigh-in. It was only 21 pounds, but I was
still impressed. We never did learn the
final results, but the front runner seemed to be a salmon that topped 50
|That's What a 21-Pound King Salmon Looks Like|
is visited by even fewer cruise ships than Wrangell, and only the smallest are
able to dock here. While we were
wandering down by the harbor, I was surprised to see the National Geographic Sea Bird, a 62-passenger ship. This ship reminded me of the one I sailed on
when I cruised the Inside Passage many years ago. These are expedition ships, not luxury cruise
liners, and the focus is entirely on Alaska, not entertainment or
gambling. If I were ever to take another
Alaskan cruise, a small ship would be my preference.
|One of the Many Harbors in Petersburg|
|The Sea Bird|
had enjoyed Petroglyph Beach so much while we were in Wrangell, we wanted to
visit the one here. We had also read
that remnants of 2,000-year-old Tlingit fish traps could be found on the
beach. We gathered as much information
as we could find and headed to Sandy Beach during low tide. We must have searched for an hour or more,
but we completely struck out. Oh well,
we did have fun looking.
|They've Got to Be Here Somewhere|
another day we drove the length of Mitkof Island on which Petersburg is located
and stopped at many of the pullouts along the way. We walked a short trail to Blind River Rapids
and passed through a muskeg bog before reaching the water. Although the rapids seemed pretty tame to me,
we enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere at water’s edge.
|Time for a Little Reflection|
|Blind River Rapids Area|
|Alaskan Lupines Lined both Sides of Mitkof Highway|
paid a visit to the Clausen Memorial Museum that provides a glimpse into the
history of Petersburg. This was your
typical small-town museum, with a few exhibits and collections that were mostly
donated by local residents. The museum
did have the original third-order
Fresnel lens from the Cape Decision Lighthouse on display, and the
docent illuminated it for us.
several RVers since we’ve been here, including two Australian couples who
pulled into the sites next to us yesterday evening. We seemed to run into them wherever we went
today, and it’s been fun hearing about their adventures in Alaska. Because the towns in the Inside Passage are
so small, and because the ferry schedules are rather limited, many RVers tend
to arrive and depart on the same ferry, and we tend to recognize each other and
get to know one another. We met another lovely
couple from California at our campground in Ketchikan and took the ferry
together to Wrangell, where we both had booked the same campground once again. We finally parted ways as we got off the
ferry in Petersburg and they continued on to Juneau. It’s been nice seeing familiar faces and sharing
a pleasant stay in Petersburg, and we have enjoyed some downtime before the
more hectic schedule we have planned for Juneau. We will be catching the ferry tomorrow
morning for the eight-hour ride to Alaska’s capital. Maybe we’ll see some marine wildlife on this
leg of the journey.
Petersburg is beautiful. I think many in Haines feel the same way about tourists. We had two cruise ships over the last two days here. One held 3500 people. They liked to walk through the campground, some leaving us their trash. The pictures are beautiful. I now know I will have to take the ferry up the passage some day.ReplyDelete
I can't imagine 3500 people in Haines! Isn't it amazing how rude some people can be. They don't seem to care, or even acknowledge, that the campground is your home. I know you were happy to see them leave. I do think you would enjoy the ferry (or sailing your own boat). We have thoroughly enjoyed the trip.Delete