Most
RVers who travel to Alaska drive to and from the Lower 48 through British
Columbia and the Yukon. But there is
another way to get there, and that is on the Alaska Marine Highway, better
known as the Alaska ferry. If you are
traveling with a pet, however, there are certain considerations that you must
take into account. Even if you are not
traveling with pets, this post may help you with the general planning process.
The ferry,
or Alaska Marine Highway System, is operated by the Alaska Department of
Transportation and serves mostly communities that cannot be reached by
road. The Alaska Marine Highway is 3,500
miles in length and stretches from Washington State to the Aleutian
Islands. The highway has the distinction
of being the only marine route designated as both a National Scenic Byway and an
All-American Road.
The Alaska Marine Highway is a Scenic Byway |
Most
RVers limit their ferry travel to Southeast Alaska and the Inside Passage. Travel by ferry allows you to see this part
of Alaska, which is entirely different than the rest of the state. Most of the communities along the Inside
Passage are accessible only by boat or plane.
It’s an incredibly beautiful part of the state. If you travel this route, you will end up in
either Haines or Skagway, where roads connect to the interior. From there you can continue your journey into
the interior on the Alaska Highway.
Planning
a trip on the ferry is not as easy as planning a driving trip. It’s a lot more complicated, and a lot of
pieces have to fall into place to pull it off.
Don’t plan on trying to put together a ferry trip over a single
weekend. It will likely take a little
longer than that. Starting the planning
process six months in advance is not too soon.
If you
are considering the idea of taking your pet on the ferry, it’s a good idea to
get advice from your veterinarian, and possibly your own therapist, before making
a final decision. We are thoroughly
enjoying this means of travel, and our cat is getting along just fine. Some RVers, however, may decide that ferry
travel and certain pets just don’t go together.
There are
two departure ports, Bellingham, Washington, and Prince Rupert, British
Columbia. Most people with pets select
Prince Rupert, but I’ll mention some of the advantages and disadvantages of
each port for those who are pet-less.
The Ferry Route through the Inside Passage |
Bellingham
is closer to most places in the United States, and the ferry route from here
will get you to Alaska much sooner. It’s
a 38-hour ride to Ketchikan, the first port of call, so you will be on the ship
for a long time. This is also the most
expensive option, especially if you book a cabin, which would certainly make
the voyage more comfortable. Part of the
route is in open water, so the seas could be quite a bit rougher than those in
the Inside Passage. If your time is limited, however, this route
would be a great option.
The M/V Columbia Sails from Bellingham |
Departing
from Prince Rupert requires a rather long, but beautiful, drive through British
Columbia. The cost is about half that of
the Bellingham route, and you arrive in Ketchikan in just over five hours.
We
selected Prince Rupert for several reasons, only one of which was the
cost. Pets are not permitted to join you
on the ferry deck and must remain in your RV or vehicle while the ferry is in
motion. On longer sailings, ferry
personnel will escort you to the car deck for brief walks or feedings several
times a day. However, we felt that 37
hours was just too long to leave our cat alone in the RV. I think most RVers with pets, especially
dogs, would tend to agree.
"Why Do I Have to Stay Behind?" |
If you
cannot (or do not) want to leave your pet alone in your RV for a minimum of
eight hours, do not even consider traveling to Alaska by ferry. At least one leg of your journey will be that
long. If you do decide to take your pet,
you will want to closely plan your itinerary and take note of how long each leg
of the journey will take. Although we
wanted to visit as many ports as possible, a secondary reason for planning so
many stops was to limit the amount of time our cat would be by herself in the
RV.
By
starting in Prince Rupert and then stopping in Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg
and Juneau, our longest ferry ride was eight hours. From Juneau, we then could catch a fast ferry
to and from Sitka, returning to Juneau for a day or two before the final leg to
Haines. If you decide to skip one of
these towns, and settle for a much longer ride, you can retrieve your pet while
the ferry is docked and get off for a walk.
However, be advised that stops are often no more than an hour or so, so that’s
not much of a break for your furry friend.
The M/V Matanuska Sails from Prince Rupert |
Even if
you are not traveling with a pet, I highly recommend scheduling a stop at as
many ports as possible, as well as staying awhile. Every town is different, and there are lots
of things to do and see, especially after the cruise ships depart in the
afternoon. If you simply remain on the
ferry from Bellingham or Prince Rupert to Juneau, you will not really experience
what the Inside Passage is all about.
When you
decide to travel will also have a bearing on the number of days you can spend
in each port. Early in the season the
ferry schedule is more limited, and ships call at some ports only twice a
week. When we looked at schedules for a
mid-May departure, we discovered that our choice was to stop for just an hour
or two, or three or four days, in each port.
If you only want to spend a day in each town, like the cruise ships do,
that may not be possible on a ferry. A
cruise may actually be a better option for you.
As the summer progresses, the frequency of sailings does tend to
increase, and there are more frequent offerings from large ports like Juneau.
We Actually Made Our Own Spreadsheet to Help Us Figure Out the Schedules |
If you
decide that ferry travel is the way to go, it is important to make reservations
early, sometimes as soon as the booking window opens. This is especially true for the most popular
routes and for travel to and from Bellingham.
You must also book a cabin early, as these tend to fill quickly. We made our reservations in January for a May
departure and had no problems getting our preferred dates.
Although
it is possible to pitch a tent on the ferry deck, or stretch out on one of the
lounge chairs, we were very happy that we had reserved a cabin when we boarded
the ferry at 3:15 am in Ketchikan. Just
remember to dress warmly. Our cabin was
freezing that night.
Even if you
are not the type of traveler that typically makes campground reservations, you
may want to think about reserving a site after you make your ferry
reservation. There are very few
campgrounds in the small towns, and even fewer with hookups. Most campgrounds are very small and tend to
fill up quickly. We were happy that we
had reservations, especially when our ferry pulled in at 10:15 in the
evening. That’s not when you want to
start looking for a place to stay for the night.
With all
of that said, you must also be flexible with your schedule. Ferry schedules do change, and you may have
to leave a day earlier than planned or stay longer. You will be at the mercy of weather and
mechanical breakdowns, as well as state budget cuts, as many people are finding
out this summer. As of July 1, one ferry
will be taken out of service, and the schedule from Prince Rupert will be cut
in half.
Schedule Changes Happen Frequently |
The FVF Chenega Is a Fast Ferry, But Is Grounded Today by Mechanical Issues |
Ferry schedules are complicated. Although you can book your entire trip online, even the Alaska Marine Highway folks suggest calling and speaking with one of their very helpful representatives. Keep in mind that most legs are on slow ferries, but see if there are other options. For example, we are taking a fast-ferry to Sitka from Juneau, saving us five hours.
Travel by
ferry is expensive, but remember that it does save wear and tear on your RV, as
well as offer savings on fuel. Ferry
pricing is also a bit complicated. RVs
are charged by the foot. Each passenger
is ticketed separately. There is also a
pet charge from Bellingham and Prince Rupert (but not between Alaska ports). Just like airline travel, each port-to-port
leg is charged a separate fee, so if you are making five stops you will have
five tickets with five different fees.
One last
thing to remember if you are planning to bring your pet on the ferry. The State of Alaska requires that pets
boarding the ferry in Bellingham or Prince Rupert have a current health
certificate, not just a current rabies certificate. The real kicker is this health certificate cannot
be more than 30 days old at the time of departure. That can be a real issue if your vet is in
Florida or Texas, or any place more than a 30-day journey to your departure
city.
We solved
that problem by selecting Petsmart for our vet needs. Most Petsmart locations house a Banfield Pet
Hospital, and records are available at any location. Our cat had her annual exam and shots while
we were in Colorado, and we then visited another Banfield while we were in
Oregon. If you have one of the wellness
plans, the second visit is covered at no charge. The vet in Oregon looked at her exam results
from Colorado, gave her a quick check and signed off on her health
certificate. I would not get the
certificate too soon, however, just in case there are changes to the ferry
schedule. You don’t want the certificate
to expire the day before boarding a delayed ferry. Two to three weeks before departure should be
fine. If you don’t use a pet hospital
with a national presence, I’m sure you could make an appointment with a vet
near the Canadian border and bring copies of your pet’s records.
Although
this post focuses on taking the ferry northbound (since that’s what we’re doing
right now), you may prefer to end your Alaska adventure with a southbound
voyage. There are advantages to
both. If you travel north, you can often
leave earlier in May and not be too worried about snow. May and June are the driest months in
Southeast Alaska, and there are fewer people early in the season. Traveling northward is a more relaxing way to
begin your journey, and by the time you reach the Alaska Highway, the roads in
the Yukon and interior Alaska may have been repaired (we’ll let you know if
that’s true!).
There are
also advantages to taking the ferry south.
You can stay in the interior later in the season and not be too
concerned about snow on your return to the Lower 48. After a long summer of driving, you won’t
have another long drive home. If you
wait until the end of the summer, there will be fewer people. Even if you think you will be too tired,
however, don’t make the mistake of skipping the ports. You’ll regret it if you do.
Whichever
way you choose, I don’t think you will regret an adventure on the ferry.
Great information. Here's a change up question. While we have a sprinter, we have considered leaving it behind and taking our car on the Marine Highway (to more easily get around while in port). Are you by any chance seeing if the small port towns have places to stay (ie., lodges, B&B).
ReplyDeleteI'm glad the information was helpful. You would have no problem finding a place to stay. We noticed several inns, B&Bs and lodges, as well as a few hotels/motels. It is definitely easier to get around with a car, but we had no problem finding a place to park the Sprinter in any of the towns (Juneau would be the most difficult, but we rented a car for another reason that I'll get into in a future post).
DeleteThanks for the reply. Your journey write-ups have been inspiring. I think you just convinced us to try Alaska next year and go via the ferry route. Am already starting to plan routes. I think we'll skip the interior on this trip and zig-zag from Wellingham to Skagway and back hitting as many small places as possible and spending 2-4 days each depending on what each locale has (fyi we've been to Alaska 3 times before on cruises so have been to some of the cities already for abbreviated stops)
ReplyDeleteThank you for the very nice compliment. I think you have a very interesting idea, and one that I'd never thought of. You could easily spend a summer in Southeast Alaska and not feel rushed to get to the interior. This would give you time to hit even more out-of-the-way places, like Prince of Wales Island, which we had to skip. You could also look into the limited ferry service to Gustavus, where you could stay and catch the day boat for a cruise into Glacier Bay National Park (we flew there from Juneau, and I'll have a post about that soon). Enjoy the planning - that's almost as much fun as the trip itself!
DeleteExcellent write up! And of course, with your description of the ports, we have decided we will have to make a return trip to Alaska, by ferry.
ReplyDeleteThank you. We've learned a lot these last two weeks, and I hoped someone might benefit from those few tips. I think you would enjoy a trip by ferry.
DeleteExcellent! I think doing the SE by way of the marine highway is a great idea. In our case, however, it would be pretty cost-prohibitive with our 40-footer. We'll have to consider our options ... perhaps doing the interior one year with the coach, and then a second trip to the SE when we downsize ... which we plan to do after we stop fulltiming. In any event, I've got this bookmarked for reference.
ReplyDeleteI'm glad the post was helpful. I can't imagine what it would cost to bring a large RV, plus a toad on the ferry! Ouch! I think your idea of two separate trips is definitely worth considering. We would be very happy to be able to spend much more time in the Southeast.
Delete